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By Rick Peters & Alison Meadows Peters  The cool, clear, swiftly-flowing water caressed my ankles as I lowered the canoe into the river. Sunlight sparkled on the surface of the current, making polarized sunglasses a necessary addition to the trip gear. Using the glasses, it was easy to make out the gravel bottom in shallow sections of the flow and hopefully, would allow me to see any submerged obstacles in our path. Alison and I donned our lifejackets and, with paddles in hand, we slipped away from shore. The canoe caught the current and we rapidly proceeded downstream. We had begun our journey on the northeast arm of the Margaree River in Nova Scotia. The night before, we made camp at MacLeod’s, a lovely private campsite near Dunvegan with spectacular views of cliffs and ocean. The site is also conveniently located close to the river. Less than a week ago, Alison and I had been married, completing a courtship that began three years ago on Prince Edward Island. The wedding took place in the fishing village of Port Morien, Nova Scotia and there, surrounded by family and friends, we exchanged our vows. After the excitement and frantic activity leading up to the wedding, the thought of a relaxing honeymoon was very appealing. The Margaree Valley (Margaree is a French place name which translates to the name Marguerite) has a rich cultural history. The Mi’kmaq were the first inhabitants, arriving after the last glaciers retreated. Settlers of mainly Scottish, French, English, and Irish origins arrived later and have contributed to the unique flavour of the region. The Gaelic culture is very much alive in this area and finds its expression in the many talented musicians found here. In the summer, it is hard not to find a ceilidh (gathering with music and dance) happening somewhere. The Broad Cove Concert, held in nearby Broad Cove, Inverness County, is perhaps the most famous Scottish concert of the region. The Margaree River is divided into two main channels, the Northeast Margaree and the Southwest Margaree. These two waterways meet at “the Forks” and their combined flow continues on to empty finally into the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The river is best known as one of the world’s most renowned salmon fishing waterways. The rich history and art of salmon fishing has been documented at the Salmon Museum in Northeast Margaree and is well worth a visit. Alison and I visited the museum on the way to our “put-in” location. After examining information found in the Canoe Routes of Nova Scotia, we decided to attempt to paddle the Northeast Margaree, mainly due to the documented presence of many fish weirs in the Southwest Margaree. A trip down the Northeast Margaree can start at Portree, however, extremely low water levels in late July forced us to begin the journey further downstream. We eventually put in where the river comes close to the Cabot Trail, upstream of Doyle Bridge. The canoe slipped gracefully through riffles and chutes as we descended the river. The whitewater posed no difficulty and I believe could be easily navigated by an intermediate level canoeist with some whitewater experience. However, much higher water levels in spring would no doubt alter this assessment. I was glad to be travelling in a flat-bottomed canoe, since many of the sections of the river had become quite shallow during the dry summer. As Alison and I descended the river, we passed fly fishermen working the various pools. All along the length of the river, fast chutes are interspersed with deep pools. As we drifted over our first pool, I shouted to Alison and pointed frantically into the water. Several huge salmon passed beneath the canoe. We could see their dark backs clearly outlined in the pristine water. Every so often, a fish would turn revealing a glorious, silver sheen. “No wonder this river is so famous”, I thought. For a moment, I wished I had brought my fly rod with me, but then, it seemed enough just to catch a glimpse of these leviathans. This scene was oft-repeated over the course of our journey. It seemed that most of the fish were in pools – where fishermen were not located; a testament to the craftiness of these creatures. The beauty of the river and valley was awe inspiring. The characteristic rounded, vegetated mountains of Cape Breton framed the river and seemed to fold into one another, creating a strikingly beautiful effect. Geologically speaking, much of the rock underlying the valley and surrounding Inverness County was formed during the Carboniferous Period, also known as the Coal Age, some 300 million years ago. The river flows mainly over rock deposited in the Early Carboniferous (320 to 360 million years ago); the majority of coal was formed during the Late Carboniferous (280 to 320 million years ago) and is found in outcrops along the coast. In various locations in Cape Breton, outcrops of coal have contributed significantly to the economy and culture of the region. As well, the coal and shale of Cape Breton are rich in fossils, including some ferns found nowhere else in North America. Eroding cliff faces by the sea in several parts of the Island are excellent sites for rock hounds. The rich green of the vegetation contrasted sharply with the blue of the river. I wondered how the scene would look in fall colours and must return someday to see for myself. Several times, as we rounded a bend in the river, a bald eagle would take flight from its aerial perch. This majestic bird-of-prey is found in significant numbers on Cape Breton Island. Canadian birds-of-prey are finally recovering from population losses caused by, among other things, the use of DDT insecticide. Their huge wingspan was an awesome sight as they soared effortlessly above us. Eagles were particularly common in the stretch of river between the Forks and East Margaree. In this part of the river, a series of dead snags at the river’s edge provided an ideal vantage point from which these predators could scan the surrounding terrain. In slower sections of the river, herons were common. The riverbanks were carpeted with wildflowers, including wild roses, Alison’s favourite. At Margaree Forks, the Southwest and Northeast flows meet, leading to a series of rapid chutes. Beyond this, the river begins to slow and at East Margaree, widens considerably prior to emptying into the Gulf of St. Lawrence at Margaree Harbour. In this last section of the river, Alison and I encountered strong headwinds which slowed our progress. Close to the mouth, tidal effects also come into play. After four hours of paddling, Alison and I arrived in Margaree Harbour. Margaree Harbour is a small fishing community at the mouth of the Margaree River. A bridge links Margaree Harbour to its sister community of Belle Cote. Anchored at the mouth of the river is the Marion Elizabeth, Canada’s oldest saltbank schooner. We discovered that the schooner was built in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia in 1915 by the builders of the Bluenose. The schooner has been converted into a restaurant and museum of local shipbuilding lore. Nearby Schooner Village, houses a craft shop and tearoom. Also available for viewing is the Boat Who Wouldn’t Float of Farley Mowat fame. Alison and I entered The Schooner restaurant and settled down to a delicious feast of mussels and fish. We had experienced a rewarding day on the Margaree River. Many couples renew their vows later in life. Instead, I think we’ll return to the Margaree to remember this special time in our lives. Rick Peters & Alison Meadows Peters currently reside in Madison, Wisconsin. Rick is a plant pathologist and Alison is an instrumental music teacher; both love to canoe. Margaree River Planner Tourist Information: Contact Nova Scotia Information & Reservations, P.O. Box 130, Halifax, NS B3J 2M7 (Tel: 1-800-565-0000, Fax: 902-453-8401) for a free copy of their Travel Guide. The Travel Guide also has excellent information on various campgrounds in the area. Also contact Inverness County Recreation/Tourism, P.O. Box 179, Port Hood, NS B0E 2W0 (Tel: 1-800-567-2400, Fax: 902-787-3110) for a copy of the publication The Sunset Side of Cape Breton or for other information about the region. Maps/Charts: Route information is found in the Canoe Routes of Nova Scotia ($9.95 +7% GST); other excellent guide books on Nova Scotia include: Sea Kayaking Nova Scotia ($16.95 + 7% GST) and the Nova Scotia Outdoor Adventure Guide ($9.95 + 7% GST). Please add $2.50 p/h; $3.50 p/h USA & $8.00 Air Mail overseas. The guides are available from the Canadian Recreational Canoeing Association, P.O. Box 398, Merrickville, Ontario K0G 1N0 (613) 269-2910 Fax: (613) 269-2908 Email: staff@crca.ca. Cheques, VISA and MasterCard accepted. Pertinent topographic maps include Map No. 11 K/6 and 11 K/7. To order call World of Maps 1-800-21-8524 or visit your local map dealer. Rentals: Canoes can be rented from Gordon Laurence at the Duck Cove Inn, Margaree Harbour, NS B0E 2B0 (Tel: 1-800-565-9993). References: The Sunset Side of Cape Breton, published by Inverness Communications Ltd., P.O. Box 100, Inverness, Nova Scotia B0E 1N0. This story is from Kanawa Magazine, the publication of the Canadian Recreational Canoeing Association. Check out the magazine at www.crca.ca/kanawa |